Much the most appealing destination on the eastern shore, CHINCOTEAGUE occupies a beautiful barrier island just south of the Maryland border. Although it's little more than a village, its two principal streets hold a fair assortment of motels and restaurants, and it makes an appropriately relaxed base for exploring Assateague Island National Seashore . The northern half of Assateague, which holds several popular hiking trails, can only be reached from Maryland; the southern half, just a mile onwards from Chincoteague, is taken up by the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge , notable for its seabirds and wild ponies. Call in at the visitor center (daily 9am-5pm; tel 757/336-6122; $5 per car) for a schedule of ranger-guided wildlife safaris ($10); or if you just want a day at the beach, drive straight past to Tom's Cove . Families fill the area nearest the parking lot, but set off walking north and you may end up with several miles of sand to yourself. If you're in Chincoteague on the last Wednesday and Thursday of July, don't miss the annual Pony Penning Carnival , when the wild ponies that roam Assateague Island to the north are herded together and directed on a swim through the channel to Chincoteague Memorial Park to be sold by auction to help the local community. It can be a crowded event, but the sight of dozens of ponies swimming in convoy in such pristine surroundings is unforgettable.

Central accommodation options in Chincoteague include the grand Island Manor House , 4160 Main St (tel 757/336-5436; $100-130), an antique-furnished B&B, and the large but peaceful Mariner Motel , 6273 Maddox Rd (tel 757/336-6565; $50-75), on the main road to Assateague. Next door, at no. 6251, is Steamers (tel 757/336-5478), a brightly lit restaurant serving all-you-can-eat spiced crab and/or shrimp meals for around $20. Located in the small waterfront plaza, Landmark Crab House , 6172 N Main St (tel 757/336-5552), also serves tasty seafood.